A novel approach to food security Is fiction the way to engage people?

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book coverIt is so easy to forget that very few people know anything about plant breeding and how vital it is to having enough to eat. The time it takes, and the resources it needs — financial, genetic, human — are just not something most people know about. No wonder, then, that many people don’t quite grasp the urgency with which we need to get cracking now to breed crops adapted to predicted climate conditions.

Susan Dworkin’s new book The Commons sidesteps that by hurling us 150 years into the future, to a world in which the failure to respond almost doomed our species to extinction. I thought it might be fun to talk to Susan and she agreed, but first I had to read the book. It turned out to be a rollicking good read, full of interesting characters and strange plot twists. All our old familiar friends are there. Large parts of the world have become very inhospitable, thanks to climate change. There’s an all-knowing Corporation that owns just about everything, including 85% of all humans in its domain. And the humans are shareholders in the whole enterprise. It all seems rather wonderful, except that there’s a problem: a new stem rust of wheat threatens a reprise of the famines and hardship of 100 years before. To say much more would be to give too much away. Let’s just say that the search for a solution is what drives the story forward.

Of course, I’m not the intended audience, so I have absolutely no idea how The Commons will be received by anyone else. I’m not even sure what the author would like us to be doing now to avoid the future she depicts. That was just one of the topics we talked about in a discussion that could have gone on a lot longer.

Notes

  1. The Commons is available from Amazon as an e-book and a paperback.
  2. If you are in the Washington DC area on 24 October, Susan Dworkin will be lecturing on “The Weather in the Supermarket: Climate Change, Seed Banks and Tomorrow’s Food” at the US Botanic Garden.
  3. I “borrowed” the music — Mavis Staples singing Hard Times Come Again No More — from Beautiful Dreamer, a wonderful tribute album to Stephen Foster. Buy it if you don’t already have it (and if you like that kind of thing).
  4. The banner photograph is my own.

Ch ch ch changes

I’ve been making a few changes around here to offer a little more. Unfortunately I ran out of time over the weekend so there may be some untidiness for a little while, especially in the iTunes feed, but I hope to have it all cleaned up quickly, with a proper explanation of what’s going on.

Citrus in Italy There's more — much more — to the story than you could ever imagine

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citrus coverCitrus, thanks to what writer Helena Attlee calls their great “suggestibility,” confound the botanist and the shopper alike. What is the difference between a clementine and a mandarin? That was one of the few questions I didn’t ask Helena Attlee when we met recently to talk about citrus in Italy, the subject of her new book The Land Where Lemons Grow. And not just lemons. Attlee writes beautifully about all the citrus and all of Italy, from Lake Garda in the north to Palermo in the south. She covers not merely the tendency of citrus to interbreed and mutate, but also history and economics, culture, cooking and organised crime. Through it all runs a continuous thread that links the very difficulties of growing citrus productively to the desirability of the finished products, on which fortunes and entire communities were built.

The Land Where Lemons Grow proves, as if it needed proving, that food provides a perfect lens through which to view the entire world, as a result of which I had to cut some choice sections from our conversation. That, however, has prompted me to try something new here, which will become apparent in a day or two as I also attempt to tidy up a bit here.

Notes

  1. More about Helena Attlee at her website

What’s cooking in Tasmania? Lots of tasty stuff from all over the world

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tasmaniaWhat better to do with a surplus rooster than turn him into a delicious meal. And share the process. Stir-fries, curries, Ethiopian wats, loaves of bread: John Grosvenor, a software developer, posts delectable images of much of his cooking on the social net ADN. That’s where I got to know him, and as we exchanged messages it became pretty clear that we were on more or less the same culinary wavelength. Never one to miss an opportunity to have my biasses confirmed, I thought it would be fun to talk to John in a bit more depth about his approach to cooking.

John mentioned the pademelon, a small wallaby, which sent me scurrying first to Wikipedia and then out into the wilder reaches of the internet. I’m not sure whether John’s pademelons are the endemic Tasmanian species (Thylogale billardierii) or one of the other species of these little wallabies. Recipes weren’t that easy to find either: Pademelon wallaby and cashew stir-fry has a bit too many cans in it for my taste, but in general wallaby seems like it might be an excellent choice of meat, despite some confused stuff about wallabies and greenhouse gas emissions at one of the suppliers. A nicely prepared female pademelon does sound just the kind of thing to make a note of if I ever get to travel to Australia.

Notes

  1. In between cooking, John Grosvenor makes excellent games for iOS.
  2. This week’s music is by Chad Crouch.

Garum brought up to date The Roman fish sauce probably isn't Roman

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fish-mosaicGarum is one of those ancient foods that everyone seems to have heard of. It is usually described as “fermented fish guts,” or something equally unappealing, and people often call it the Roman ketchup, because they used it so liberally on so many things. Fermented fish guts is indeed accurate, though calculated to distance ourselves from it. And garum is just one form of fermented fish; there’s also liquamen, muria. allec and haimation. All this I learned from Laura Kelley, author of The Silk Road Gourmet. Unlike most of the people who opine on garum, and who offer recipes for quick garum, she painstakingly created the real deal. She is also convinced that it isn’t really Roman in origin. We only think of it that way because history is written by the victors not the vanquished.

And then there’s the whole question of the Asian fish sauces, Vietnamese nước mắm and the rest of them. Independent discovery, or copied from the Romans?

Notes

  1. Laura gives a full blow-by-blow on her website. Copying her is probably the only way to produce something that approximates genuine garum.
  2. She also mentioned colatura, a fish sauce still made in Italy. I haven’t tried it, although it is available, at least in the US, by mail order.
  3. Photo of the garum vats in Baelo Claudia by Janet Mendel.