Eat This Newsletter 013

21 September 2015

The last watermelon of summer

  1. Stop and think for a minute: how do they make seedless watermelons? All you need to know, and more besides.
  2. A report from the fourth Beeronomics conference. In other news, there are enough “economists and other scientists who work on the economics of beer” to merit a conference series.
  3. I’d be really interested to know what a decent ag economist would make of this chart from the USDA, showing that fewer and fewer beef sales are transparently priced.
  4. A long and complex discursion that springboards from “the first prong in the anti-hipster food backlash”. I suspect that there’s a lot less to this than meets the eye.
  5. It’s an ill wind … the Russian ban on decadent Western foods is proving a godsend to local cheese producers.
  6. As ever, some shameless self-promotion. This discovery of oriental fruit flies in Florida makes it worth linking to the episode These aren’t the pests you are looking for.
  7. And finally, a tail piece: the true history of culatello.

A year of cooking almost everything from scratch How one young woman discovered unprocessed food

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unprocessedMegan Kimble — that’s her on the left — is a young journalist in Tucson, Arizona. Back in 2012, she set out to stick it to the processed food man, by eating only unprocessed food for a year. Her book Unprocessed: My City-Dwelling Year of Reclaiming Real Food tells the whole story.

It’s odd that two books that have at their core the prevalence of processed food came out within a month of one another, but while Anastacia Marx de Selcado explains how it is that the US military came to occupy supermarket shelves, Megan Kimble simply wants nothing to do with processed foods. Her reasons boil down to taking control of what she eats and boosting the local economy. Along the way she discovers she can’t really do without chocolate, so she learns to make her own.

Notes

  1. Megan Kimble has a website.

Eat This Newsletter 012

7 September 2015

Get ’em while they’re hot.

  1. Fuchsia Dunlop writes about the fermented foods of Shaoxing in China with wit, wisdom and a spirit of adventure. Not surprised her article won an award, although I’m not sure I’d want to try those foods without her by my side as a guide.
  2. If you would prefer to read about Japanese pickles, you’ll have to make do with a somewhat less erudite, but nonetheless interesting, article from japan-guide.com.
  3. Rachel Laudan traces the long march of the potato in China, with not fermented but raw and lightly cooked dishes. I have to try raw potato salad.
  4. What was the American Egg Board thinking when it launched an attack on Hampton Creek’s Just Mayo? And why does Hampton Creek show an egg on the label when the whole point of Just Mayo is that modified plant proteins play the part of eggs? Dan Charles at NPR answers some other questions as he explains How Big Egg Tried To Bring Down Little ‘Mayo’ (And Failed).
  5. I’m not going to rant, here, about people who make it hard to share their podcasts. I’ll leave you to decide whether you want to listen to the people at BackStory dig into meat in America with Rare History Done Well.
  6. And the shameless self-promotion this time is not for a previous podcast but for the revival of Fornacalia, my bread and baking website. A visit to Stockholm inspired me to a second attempt at knäckebrot; better, but not good enough. Yet.

The military-culinary complex How the army invaded lunchboxes everywhere

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combat-readyHave you ever stopped to wonder what drives the incessant innovation in processed food? Who thought that an energy bar would be a good thing to exist? What was the logic that drove the development of the cheese-flavoured powder that coats so many snacks? Even instant coffee; why was that needed? The answer to all these questions, and many more, can be traced back to the US Army’s Natick Center, outside Boston, Massachusetts. That is where the Combat Feeding Directorate of the US army, with the help of academics and large food processing companies, designs the rations that sustain American soldiers and much of the rest of America and the world. Soldiers need rations that are lightweight, that don’t spoil over time, and that can withstand some pretty brutal handling. The rest of us pay for the same. Author Anastacia Marx de Selcado’s book Combat-Ready Kitchen, published in early August, lifts the lid on how the army has invaded almost all aspects of processed food.

Notes

  1. Combat-Ready Kitchen is available from Amazon and elsewhere. If you buy from that link, I get a tiny pittance.
  2. Anastacia Marx de Selcado has a website, of course.
  3. The banner photograph shows a high pressure processing production line, © Moira Mac.