Eat This Newsletter 019

14 December 2015

Give us this day

  1. Our daily bread, being a long interview with one woman’s bread hero, the Finn behind Bread magazine.
  2. Not everything here is new; thanks to my compadre Luigi for pointing me to an article from a couple of years ago, Bread in the Middle Ages.
  3. Not to nit-pick or anything, but articles like this debase the term “genetically modified”. Which is a shame, I think, because it is a good explanation of the difficulties of breeding wheat, in French.
  4. You’ll be wanting a bit of cheese with all that bread, to be sure, to be sure.
  5. Never mind the jetpack, where’s my complete meal in a pill?

Aquae Urbis Romae Clean, endless, free water has been a right for more than 2000 years

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katherine-rinneVisitors to Rome are often astonished not so much by the big famous fountains that dot the city but by the smaller flows that gush or trickle from what seems like every street corner. All that water, going to waste. Those drinking fountains – known locally as nasoni or big noses – deliver endless streams of delicious, cold water night and day, summer and winter, and it surprises many people to learn that public water fountains have been a feature of the city since well before the Republic. Indeed, clean water was the right of every Roman citizen.

Dotted around the city and its environs you’ll also see traces of the engineering that made the public drinking fountains possible: the long, straight lines of the aqueducts and, more often, the occasional broken arch. In many cases, the city’s water supply still traces the routes of the aqueducts and even uses their structures. There is a lot of information about the waters of Rome online, but nothing beats a personal tour guide. I was lucky enough to persuade Katherine Rinne, who supplies a lot of the online information, to show me how it all worked.

Notes

  1. Katherine Rinne’s book The Waters of Rome: Aqueducts, Fountains, and the Birth of the Baroque City gives much, much more detail. There’s also a much earlier book of the same name by H.V. Morton, which lacks some of the scholarship that Rinne supplies.
  2. If you think I’ve belaboured the antiquity of the Roman public water supply, you’re right. Because a very popular podcast slighted my adopted home by ignoring it completely.
  3. I highly recommend drowning yourself in the interactive timeline of the waters of Rome. Hours of desktop diversion. Alas, it does need Flash player

Eat This Newsletter 018

30 November 2015

Domesticated bliss

  1. Rachel Laudan writes about the origins of rice, maize and chickens.
  2. Not forgetting the sweet potatoes.
  3. Maybe the awful headline did attract some readers, but I’m here to help you get past it and find out about Clementine Paddleford.
  4. “Ninety minutes into the meeting, we were still trying to agree what the hell a vegetable was.” Was that meeting of nutritionists worthwhile? You be the judge.
  5. A history of modern Irish cheesemaking.

I was in Ireland last week, and managed not to do Irish cheese. But I did lots of other good things that will show up in the podcast in due course.

How to measure what farms produce Going beyond yield and calories to the true value of production

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defriesHow should we measure what farms produce? The answer drives some pretty important trends. For the past 60 years and more, the key metric has been yield – tonnes per hectare or equivalent. And it has resulted in extraordinary improvements in productivity, at least as measured by yield, and at least for some crops. Over the past 60 years, the productivity of the three major cereals – wheat, rice and maize – has gone up 3.2 times, more than keeping up with the 2.3-times increase in population. And the total production of those three has gone up from 66 per cent of all cereals to 79 percent over the same period. Largely as a result, we no longer see the same large-scale famines that we used to.

Yield, however, isn’t everything. Nor are calories, which some people have embraced as a better measure than yield. The world produces enough calories for everyone (ignoring for now the fact that there are problems with distribution) but calories are not enough.

As Ruth DeFreis says in the podcast, “If calories were everything, why would we have a billion iron-deficient people?”

Ruth and her co-authors have come up with an alternative measure, nutritional yield: “The number of adults who would be able to obtain 100% of their recommended DRI [dietary reference intake] of different nutrients for 1 year from a food item produced annually on one hectare”.

To me, this makes intuitive sense. Food – as opposed to, say, biofuel – is for nourishing people, not powering machines. So of course there’s more to it than calories. I’ve tried saying as much to pundits gung-ho for yield or calories, even before I read the paper, but with no great success. So when the topic came up again I jumped at the opportunity to speak to the lead author.

Notes

  1. Ruth DeFries recently published The Big Ratchet: How Humanity Thrives in the Face of Natural Crisis.
  2. Metrics for land-scarce agriculture is in the 17 July 2015 issue of Science.
  3. My side of the little rant is at the Agricultural Biodiversity Weblog. The calorie-fans can put their own side up if they’re so minded.
  4. A couple of weeks later, my compadre Luigi wrote about the Science paper and added his own views.

Eat This Newsletter 017

16 November 2015

Eating information

  1. You’ll never look at that green blob next to your sushi the same again.
  2. A technocrat speaks: “Local and organic is a romantic myth – the future of sustainable agriculture is all about smart technology and scaling up”.
  3. How does agriculture use land?
  4. Which crops make money?
  5. Who will eat most meat?

The last three are intended to whet your appetite for next week’s podcast on nutritional yield.