The kit in kitchens

I’m just back from the 3rd Annual Amsterdam Symposium on the History of Food, with a bulging notebook and a couple of interviews. While those come to a boil, I wanted to share a wonderful new (to me) website from the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen. As the website explains:

ALMA links these depictions of pre-industrial objects, dating from the late Middle Ages to the nineteenth century, in paintings and prints to examples of similar material objects. The ALMA database can be searched extensively for the relation between object and depiction. Research results are published in the ALMA showcases.

At the Symposium Dr Alexandra Gaba-van Dongen presented a selection of examples from the ALMA showcase, including this thorough examination of some Van Gogh still-lifes.

Fascinating stuff, that I think could be a very useful resource for anyone interested in food culture as depicted in art.

Just Mayo lives

IN late December 2015, ((Sorry, I missed it then.)) the Food and Drug Administration agreed to let Hampton Creek call its eggless emulsion of fats and liquids Just Mayo, as long as the company also tweaked the label to comply with other rules. For one, the nutrition guidelines on the new label are in a black box, just as they are supposed to be. ((Peter Hertzmann mentioned this in our podcast on the topic.)) Also gone, for reasons unexplained, the words Dairy-free, Lactose-free and kosher. Here’s hoping no lactose-intolerant observant Jews are affected.

One big change is that the label now describes the contents of the jar as a “spread & dressing”. The old label didn’t actually have such a description. Maybe some people thought is was, er, just mayo.

And that’s the other change. Hampton Creek has explained that just relates to “justice,” rather than “only”. As the New York Times explained:

[T]he label will define the word “just” in the brand name to mean “guided by reason, justice and fairness” instead of suggesting that it was an exact replica of mayonnaise.

And, as I pointed out last November, all this is about an ingredient present in such small quantities that it doesn’t even figure on the label. I wonder whether Vegenaise will now change it’s brand. Not if it listens to Josh Tetrick:

“Number one, never use the word ‘vegan,’”

Tulip bulb soup Second helpings from Eat This Podcast 2015

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amsterdamAs ever, I’m taking a little break and bringing you some repeats from 2015. This one is prompted by an episode of NPR’s Planet Money that I’ve just listened to. They decided to cook a peacock for reasons that I think had something to do with the role of spices in global trade and the birth of capitalism in the 17th century. And who should they call on as their expert guide but Christianne Muusers.

Long time listeners may remember that it was almost a year ago that I met Christianne at the 2nd annual Amsterdam Symposium on the History of Food. We talked about the very antithesis of conspicuous consumption represented by a heavily-spiced peacock pie: tulip bulb soup, which kept some Dutch people alive through the hunger winter of 1943–44.

The Amsterdam Food Symposium takes place again next week, on 15 and 16 January 2016. Unfortunately I really don’t think I can afford to go this year, which is a great shame.

Notes

  1. Details of the Symposium here.
  2. Christianne Muusers’ site is called Coquinaria and there’s some more information on tulip bulbs as food from Green Deane.
  3. The tulip in the photo is China Pink, and I took it. The banner photo shows some Dutch ration coupons, from Wikimedia.
  4. Thanks for the inspiration to Planet Money’s We cooked a peacock, especially if it brings in a few listeners.

Eat This Newsletter 020

28 December 2015

New old stuff

  1. The pre-mayonnaise vitello tonnato continues with Vitello tonnato and the mayonnaise conundrum. Either way, I don’t get enough of it.
  2. Reinventing the Greenhouse goes to China to examine proper solar-heated greenhouses, just like a 1978 book on my shelves. How soon before these become a thing in urban agriculture?
  3. Fun, guys:
    1. The Year in Fungi from Nicola Twilley.
    2. Speaking of Chemistry explains the taste of truffles in a video.
    3. Behold, the Agar Art Contest. Not strictly food, but how can you not like people who paint pictures with fungi (and bacteria)?
  4. Tucson Becomes the First UNESCO-Designated Creative City of Gastronomy in the U.S.. Shameless plug for my interview with Megan Kimble, Tucsonite and author of Unprocessed.

An experiment in sound and taste The music I heard really did affect the flavours I tasted

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coverMaybe you’ve read about experiments that show that when potato crisps crunch louder, people say they’re fresher. And beyond crisps, all sorts of taste sensations can be manipulated by the sounds that surround them. Heavy metal apparently renders a Cabernet Sauvignon more robust. The drone of an airplane engine renders the umami of tomato juice more or less irresistable, a fact I can attest to. Top chefs are using sound to manipulate the dining experience, but when it comes down to it, I was very doubtful that drinking beer while listening to music would have any noticeable effect. I was wrong.

The revelation took place on a freezing morning in a deconsecrated church in Kilfinane, a little village between County Cork and County Limerick in Ireland. Caroline Hennessy — minus white coat — conducted the proceedings, plying us with samples from the Eight Degrees Brewing in nearby Mitchelstown, while Brian Leach played some music he’d recorded specially for the occasion. It was all part of the Hearsay Audio Festival 2015, a delight in so many ways, and although I hadn’t intended to produce a podcast there, I couldn’t pass up the chance. So here it is, and if it sounds a little rough around the edges, that’s because it was possibly the most difficult episode I’ve ever assembled.

Notes

  1. Of course that shoudn’t be a Guinness in the photos, it should be a Knockmealdown Irish Stout from Eight Degrees Brewing, but as you can tell I’ve been in a terrible rush.
  2. If you’re looking for a guide to Irish craft brews, Caroline Hennessy’s book Sláinte is available from Amazon.
  3. Brian Leach was kind enough to let me have clean copies of all his music. My apologies if I massacred it in the mix.
  4. I would have made an even bigger mess of things if Andrea Rangecroft, a superb audio producer, had not let me have her recording.
  5. I have no words to thank Hearsay Audio Festival. It really was a wonderful experience in so many ways, thanks to them, the other participants and the people of Kilfinane. I hope to be back.