More foie gras. Please.

Over at the other place, I wrote about some of the things that just wouldn’t fit here. Mostly, that was about the anatomy and physiology of the digestive system of ducks and geese, and the question of how essential is the process of gavage to the production of foie gras. In French law, it is required. No gavage, no foie gras.

So what do you call the fatty liver that some people seem able to persuade ducks and geese to make?

Also, some links to things other people have written, and truly the most horrifying discovery of the past couple of weeks: foie’camole.

Foie gras A sociologist looks at perhaps the world’s most contentious food

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foie-grasAny way you slice it, foie gras — the fatty liver of a duck or goose — is a fighting matter. To animal rights activists it is quite obviously cruel and depraved. To many chefs and eaters, it is a delicious extravagance. To many other chefs and eaters, it is something they would rather not countenance. To the vast majority of French people, it is a symbol of their nation and an essential part of their identity, the rare product of smiling rustic grandmothers, making a bit of pin money on the side. And for the industrial producers responsible for 90% of French foie gras, those rustic grandmothers are icons of perfect marketing.

The whole foie gras story — which is by no means over yet — offers a fascinating insight into the role of politics in food — which happens to be the subtitle of a new book by Michaela DeSoucey, a sociologist who got caught up in foie gras just before the topic exploded all over the food scene in Chicago.

In this episode, we talked about just a few of the things that make foie gras such a special topic.

Notes

  1. Michaela DeSoucey’s book is Contested Tastes: foie gras and the politics of food, published by Princeton University Press.
  2. There has been an awful lot written about foie gras in America, more than I care to link to here. But the Chicago Tribune did publish a look back at what they called Chicago’s foie gras fiasco. I took the cover photo from there.
  3. If you want some straight talk on foie gras, and how to prepare it from scratch, you could do worse than visit Peter Hertzmann’s website.
  4. Banner photo of Chef Doug Richey (c) Heather Irwin.
  5. And the music? Sonata IV in C Major for Trumpet and Strings by Heinrich Ignaz Franz von Biber.

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Eat This Newsletter 043

7 November 2016

Authentic food news

  1. Let’s get the shameless self-promotion out of the way first, for a change. Read Tim Hayward’s piece about the seven essential kitchen knives and then, to help you get over the idea that more than one of them is essential, listen to Peter Hertzmann on knives as bling,
  2. Have you ever wondered about “mouthfeel”? What is it, where did it come from, and how does it differ from texture? Read The mystery of “mouthfeel”, from Language Log, and wonder no more. Or maybe still more.
  3. Fish farming is fraught with problems, but then, so is hunting for seafood. A Q&A from Foodtank offers some answers and lots more questions.
  4. “Catfish farms are roughly as sexy as catfish themselves.” For an entirely different perspective on fish farms, turn to Landscape Architecture Magazine and an essay on the catfish ponds of the Mississippi delta.
  5. I’m shocked, I tell you, Shocked. Not all the produce sold by farmers at farmers markets was produced by the farmer doing the marketing.
  6. Some people seem to think that a label showing country of origin is a good guarantee of quality — as long as it is their country. A political scientist surveys gastronationalism in Europe.

That last piece credits “The American sociologist, Michaely DeSoucey” with the term gastronationalism. Actually, her name is Michaela DeSoucey. How do I know? She happens to be central to next week’s episode.

Wine and cheese Science and recent thinking agree -- white is a usually a better bet than red

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wine-cheeseTraditionally, the wine to drink with a bit of cheese was always a red wine. But tastes have changed, and nowadays you can find lots of recommendations for white wines to drink with cheeses. Those recommendations — all of them — are based on personal opinion, what one person likes or finds enjoyable. There’s nothing wrong with that, of course. Most recommendations are just that. But I was somewhat surprised to learn that although there have been lots of studies of how expert tasters describe not oney wine or cheese but just about anything, until now there has been almost no research into how the taste of one thing affects another.

A recent paper in the Journal of Food Science asked how cheese affects the taste of wine, using a technique called temporal dominance of sensation, which is itself a fairly new approach to describing taste and especially how it changes over time. As it happens, the conclusions of this scientific study mostly mirror recent advice: white wine is usually a safer choice. I spoke to Mara Galmarini, the researcher behind the paper and to Edward Behr, editor of the Art of Eating newsletter, who has been a long-time champion of white wine with cheese.

Notes

  1. Mara Galmarini’s paper, with colleagues, is Use of Multi-Intake Temporal Dominance of Sensations (TDS) to Evaluate the Influence of Cheese on Wine Perception.
  2. Edward Behr’s Art of Eating newsletter is, in my view, indispensable.
  3. Banner and cover photos courtesy of CSGA, Dijon. Additional photo by Isabelle Puaut
  4. If you haven’t already heard it, may I suggest you pair this episode with a much earlier one: An Italian wine education.

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Eat This Newsletter 042

24 October 2016

Authentic food news

  1. Reports of the death of clean eating are premature. Deconstructing energy balls. And acid/alkali balls. And sugar balls. Thanks to Bee Wilson.
  2. Crafty beers. If you can’t beat them, steal their clothes, disguise yourself, doss in their bed and then blame the landlord.
  3. Fuchsia Dunlop’s guide to the many cuisines of China — in London.
  4. Then again, an east German pickle points to the perils of globalisation.
  5. Then again, a local newspaper dominates global restaurant reviews.
  6. Will Cured — a glossy, non-digital niche magazine — burst the fermentation bubble or inflate it even more?