Eat This Newsletter 043

7 November 2016

Authentic food news

  1. Let’s get the shameless self-promotion out of the way first, for a change. Read Tim Hayward’s piece about the seven essential kitchen knives and then, to help you get over the idea that more than one of them is essential, listen to Peter Hertzmann on knives as bling,
  2. Have you ever wondered about “mouthfeel”? What is it, where did it come from, and how does it differ from texture? Read The mystery of “mouthfeel”, from Language Log, and wonder no more. Or maybe still more.
  3. Fish farming is fraught with problems, but then, so is hunting for seafood. A Q&A from Foodtank offers some answers and lots more questions.
  4. “Catfish farms are roughly as sexy as catfish themselves.” For an entirely different perspective on fish farms, turn to Landscape Architecture Magazine and an essay on the catfish ponds of the Mississippi delta.
  5. I’m shocked, I tell you, Shocked. Not all the produce sold by farmers at farmers markets was produced by the farmer doing the marketing.
  6. Some people seem to think that a label showing country of origin is a good guarantee of quality — as long as it is their country. A political scientist surveys gastronationalism in Europe.

That last piece credits “The American sociologist, Michaely DeSoucey” with the term gastronationalism. Actually, her name is Michaela DeSoucey. How do I know? She happens to be central to next week’s episode.

Wine and cheese Science and recent thinking agree -- white is a usually a better bet than red

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wine-cheeseTraditionally, the wine to drink with a bit of cheese was always a red wine. But tastes have changed, and nowadays you can find lots of recommendations for white wines to drink with cheeses. Those recommendations — all of them — are based on personal opinion, what one person likes or finds enjoyable. There’s nothing wrong with that, of course. Most recommendations are just that. But I was somewhat surprised to learn that although there have been lots of studies of how expert tasters describe not oney wine or cheese but just about anything, until now there has been almost no research into how the taste of one thing affects another.

A recent paper in the Journal of Food Science asked how cheese affects the taste of wine, using a technique called temporal dominance of sensation, which is itself a fairly new approach to describing taste and especially how it changes over time. As it happens, the conclusions of this scientific study mostly mirror recent advice: white wine is usually a safer choice. I spoke to Mara Galmarini, the researcher behind the paper and to Edward Behr, editor of the Art of Eating newsletter, who has been a long-time champion of white wine with cheese.

Notes

  1. Mara Galmarini’s paper, with colleagues, is Use of Multi-Intake Temporal Dominance of Sensations (TDS) to Evaluate the Influence of Cheese on Wine Perception.
  2. Edward Behr’s Art of Eating newsletter is, in my view, indispensable.
  3. Banner and cover photos courtesy of CSGA, Dijon. Additional photo by Isabelle Puaut
  4. If you haven’t already heard it, may I suggest you pair this episode with a much earlier one: An Italian wine education.

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Eat This Newsletter 042

24 October 2016

Authentic food news

  1. Reports of the death of clean eating are premature. Deconstructing energy balls. And acid/alkali balls. And sugar balls. Thanks to Bee Wilson.
  2. Crafty beers. If you can’t beat them, steal their clothes, disguise yourself, doss in their bed and then blame the landlord.
  3. Fuchsia Dunlop’s guide to the many cuisines of China — in London.
  4. Then again, an east German pickle points to the perils of globalisation.
  5. Then again, a local newspaper dominates global restaurant reviews.
  6. Will Cured — a glossy, non-digital niche magazine — burst the fermentation bubble or inflate it even more?

English sausages The glory and gristly details of a much loved food

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sausage-coilEnglish sausages have a definite dual personality. One of those is a sumptuous, succulent blend of good meat, a bit of cereal, herbs and spices and maybe even a touch of the vegetable, like leeks. The other is a staple of the poor. Who knows what unspeakable things lurk inside its wrinkled exterior? But if, like me, you thought that the suspect sausage was purely a product of the industrial revolution, prepare for a revelation.

Jan Davison was the second ever guest on the show, talking about the air-cured sausages of Europe’s mountainous regions. Her new book is all about the English sausage, and digs deep into its Jekyll and Hyde past, served at the court of Richard II and hiding tainted meat and worse from the sight of the urban poor.

Notes

  1. English Sausages by Jan Davison is published by Prospect Books, along with much else besides.
  2. Including an enlarged facsimile of William Ellis’ The Country Housewife’s Family Companion, in which you will find his instructions on “How to make complete sausages for sale, or for a private family” along with much else besides, again.
  3. Jan talked a bit about Newmarket sausages, one of many regional specialities and one granted a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) in Europe in 2012. There was a bit of a spat because the secret recipes of the two main butchers making sausages in Newmarket were different. The two refused to join forces and promote a single secret recipe, so the PGI leaves a fair amount of room for manoeuvre. Cumberland has a PGI too.
  4. Cover photo by Flickr member John Giacomoni.

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Eat This Newsletter 041

10 October 2016

Authentic food news

  1. The Xylella outbreak in Italy is bad enough without appalling “journalism” to make it worse. Major Italian Daily “La Stampa” Rehashes Xylella Noise as Scoop.
  2. Usually plant domestication and agriculture enables population expansion. Here’s a new idea: Population boom preceded early farming.
  3. That rhetoric, about how US agriculture feeds the world? Not the poor world, that’s for sure. Here’s the big report, and the rabble-rousing exegesis.
  4. And, to follow that, a very thoughtful piece from Katherine McDonald on the past eight years in US farm and environment policy, which I already tweeted.
  5. Craft beer sticks it to The Man.