Let them eat kale

The UK’s shortage of vegetables ((Which Modern Farmer helpfully extends to “vegetable-like fruits,” bless its cotton socks.)) remains in the news.

Meanwhile, people who don’t rely on supermarkets for their fresh produce seem to be doing fine, like my friend Dan, who sent this note.

Haven’t really even noticed the lettuce shortage. We eat Spanish broccoli, but mostly eat local, seasonal greens. Loads of kale, cavolo nero etc around here now, and cauliflower.

He also mentioned Claytonia perfoliata, aka miner’s lettuce and winter purslane. I’d forgotten about that, to be honest, though I used to grow it in the UK. Very good it is too.

There are, in fact, many more salad leaves than were pictured in the article in Eat This Newsletter and the current shortage ought to be a great incentive to try some of them. Instead, it seems to be bringing out the worst in at least one newspaper columnist.

Eat This Newsletter 048

6 February 2017

  1. Me, I’m not weeping over the iceberg lettuce shortage in the UK. The silver lining: It prompted this little post that explained just how precarious supply lines are and offered some alternatives. I recognised all except Tango. What is it?
  2. More biodiversity for citizen scientists. Rob Dunn’s lab at North Carolina State University wants you to pay particular attention to pumpkin predators. There’s a very contentious statement in the middle of that piece, which I might address elsewhere.
  3. A favourite contributor to Eat This Podcast gets star treatment: Ken Albala “takes on the tangled world of noodles”.
  4. A global history of the coconut, with recipes.
  5. On the other hand, some coconut scholars don’t fully agree. Dig deeper.

Worst food diagram ever?

Marion Nestle describes this diagram as “my favourite figure”.

Calories

I hope she’s joking, because I can’t make head nor tail of it. ((Well, I can, but only with considerable effort.))

It’s from a USDA publication on U.S. Trends in Food Availability and a Dietary Assessment of Loss-Adjusted Food Availability, 1970-2014

Note, first, that the data are for food availability, which “serve as a proxy for food consumption”. So it’s measuring what’s there and saying all of it was eaten. Fair enough.

Inside the report are tables and graphs that are far more informative than that circular abomination — what are we even supposed to be comparing?

Marion Nestle concludes:

[C]alories from all food groups increased, fats and oils and the meat group most of all, dairy and fruits and vegetables the least.

While the report says:

Americans continue to fall short of the recommended amounts in USDA’s Dietary Guidelines for Americans for fruit, vegetables, whole grains, seafood, and dairy products, and their consumption continues to exceed the recommended amounts for total grains, some protein foods, saturated fat, and added sugars. In order to meet these recommendations, Americans would need to lower their consumption of added fats, refined grains, and added sugars and sweeteners, and to increase their consumption of vegetables, whole grains, dairy products, and fruit.

Go to it.

In praise of meat, milk and eggs For poor people, a little animal source food goes a long way

Excluding animal products from your diet as a vegetarian or vegan is a choice some people have the luxury to make, and if they know what they’re doing, and take care, they can be perfectly healthy. But there are probably far more people who have no choice in the matter. They would eat meat if they could, but they simply can’t afford it. For those people, a little bit of animal source food – milk, meat, eggs – can make a great difference to their health and wellbeing. It can be easy to forget that, in the clamour for meatless Mondays and other efforts to respond to climate change. There’s also the fact that in many parts of the world, animals play a very useful role in transforming things people can’t or won’t eat, like grass, into good food.

One of the organisations promoting greater access to animal source foods is ILRI, the International Livestock Research Institute. They’re faced with some formidable challenges. One is to ensure that more animal foods doesn’t mean greater emissions of greenhouse gases. The other is to manage food safety as the demand for animal source foods grow. To find out more I talked to two people at ILRI: Shirley Tarawali, Assistant Director General, and Delia Grace, a veterinarian and epidemiologist.

Notes

  1. International Livestock Research Institute
  2. Industrial production of poultry gives rise to deadly strains of bird flu H5Nx
  3. Banner photo by ILRI/Dave Elsworth
  4. Other photos by ILRI/Stevie Mann

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Eat This Newsletter 047

23 January 2017

Authentic food news

The previous newsletter was back on 19 December, when I suggested that if there were interesting stuff over the festive season, I’d share it. Well, there was, but I didn’t, so you’ve got your work cut out. All of it, I have to say, wonderfully opinionated, not that I necessarily agree with all the opinions expressed. But they are entertaining.

So, let’s get cracking.

  1. In Cato Unbound, Gary Taubes has been defending his sugar hypothesis against all comers. Read the response essays too, if you have time. And energy.
  2. If you worry about sugary sodas, I hope you weren’t tut-tutting when you read that poor people spend money on sodas because, as Marc Bellemare explains, so does everyone else.
  3. Mark Bittman, meanwhile, offers a recipe for a healthy food system. Right.
  4. Darra Goldstein recalls her years in Soviet Russia and how they prepared her for her dedication to food preservation, in an extended conversation for Harvard Design Magazine.
  5. Are you ready for pasta with terroir?
  6. How about mutiny in the mess tent?
  7. Saving best for last: Bee Wilson on the slow death of the great British curry house and — irony fully intended — Harry Sword conjures Keith Floyd of blessed memory to pour scorn on the modern incarnation of the great British everything.