Eat This Newsletter 066

13 November 2017

  1. The Codfather is Finally In Jail from Modern Farmer, which links to a nice background piece that I don’t think I’ve seen before. Seriously, though, has anyone optioned the film rights?
  2. Is organic really better for the environment than conventional agriculture? As always, the correct answer to a question in a headline is usually “No”.
  3. This is definitely the year of sticking it to big chicken. I haven’t yet read The Hamlet Fire but I plan to.
  4. You’ll never look at another food photo in the same way after reading #EatingfortheInsta: A Semiotic Analysis of Digital Representations of Food on Instagram.
  5. And, in case you missed them, Rachel Laudan on why cooking isn’t easy and Martin Lersch’s technique to make it easier.

Cooking is hard. Make it easier.

Rachel Laudan had a thoughtful post on Monday. She was praising an article in The Atlantic, which pointed out that all those recipes for easy, simple to prepare, gourmet meals frequently turn out to be empty promises. I liked this quote from the article:

Real “easy” cooking, if that’s what you’re after, is far too simple to sustain a magazine and cookbook industry.

Rachel added her own reasons, number one of which is supermarket fatigue.

You have to negotiate the modern supermarket. The average supermarket carries nearly 39,000 different items. What other task is so likely to create decision fatigue until you have developed ways of blocking out most of the information screaming at you?

Two days later — probably without there having been any collusion — along comes Martin Lersch with a post about his grocery list and how it eases his passage through the supermarket and through the week’s cooking.

I have a generic list where I can tick of what I need. There’s enough space so I can add specifications and stuff that’s not on the list. In all its simplicity it is a list of what I normally get at the grocery store, organized according to food categories and the layout of my local supermarket. This saves time!

That approach won’t be for everybody. But if, like Martin, you make one big shopping trip a week, I reckon you could do worse than see whether you can adapt and adopt his system.

And another thing, this post is a testimony to the value of subscribing to websites that interest you. Martin hasn’t posted on his site in more than three years, but his latest popped up in my RSS reader and I was very happy to see it there.

Rethinking the folk history of American agriculture Earl Butz is not the central villain of the piece

Remember Farm Aid, which launched in 1985? A lot of people do, and they tend to date the farm crisis in America to the 1980s, triggered by Earl Butz and his crazy love for fencerow to fencerow, get big or get out, industrial agriculture. And of course, land consolidation is inevitable, because if you’re going to invest in all that capital equipment to make your farm more efficient, you’re bound to buy up the smaller farmers who weren’t so savvy. Those “facts,” however, are anything but. They’re myths, on which much of the current criticism of American farm policy is built. There are others, too, and they’re all skillfully eviscerated by Nate Rosenberg and Bryce Wilson Stucki in a recent paper.

nixon and butz
One villain or two?

And here’s another thing. That first Farm Aid concert apparently raised $9 million. You could presumably help a lot of poor old dirt farmers with that kind of cash. But Farm Aid wasn’t actually about poor old dirt farmers, it was about people like Willie Nelson. He lost $800,000 the year before Farm Aid. Nine million dollars doesn’t go too far when individual people are losing that kind of money.

Notes

  1. The paper is The Butz Stops Here: Why the Food Movement Needs to Rethink Agricultural History, by Nathan A. Rosenberg and Bryce Wilson Stucki.
  2. John Biewen’s wonderful story about the Wise Family Farm in his series Five Farms tells the story of one black farmer in context. The family also featured in Biewen’s series Seeing White, all of which makes for disquieting and valuable listening. Gravy, the podcast from the Southern Foodways Alliance, also did a great episode on black land loss and systematic racism in the USDA.
  3. I plundered various online archives for the clips of Jimmy Carter, Earl Butz and Willie Nelson.
  4. I owe a real debt of gratitude to Jonathan Kim for helping me to get a good clear recording of Bryce.
  5. When you want photographs of rural America in the 1930s, you turn to Dorothea Lange, so I did.
  6. Under no circumstances should you visit this page to see the utterly reprehensible use that popular culture made of Butz’s “gross indiscretion in a private conversation” which “in no way reflects [his] real attitude”.

huffduffer icon   Huffduff it

Organic hydroponic non-shock

There’s been a lot of fuss recently over the decision of the National Organic Standards Board in the US to allow crops not grown in the ground to be certified organic. The main counterargument is that it somehow contravenes the “spirit” of organic growing, but that got sluiced away almost as soon as organic certification became a thing.

Certification is a substitute for the relationship that once upon a golden time existed between the people who grew food and the people who ate it. It’s a substitute for trust, but if people knew about the myriad exceptions that make most organic certification schemes leakier than a rusty colander, they’d see that their trust is wholly misplaced.

Hydroponics are good for all sorts of reasons, making use of space otherwise unsuitable for growing food and, often, better for the environment. They could promote those virtues with their own PR campaign — which would cost money, take time and require charging more for their products. Instead, the canny hydroponic growers have hitched a ride on the coattails of the organic movement and charge their higher prices that way.

And the public seems none the wiser.

Eat This Newsletter 065

30 October 2017

  1. From the antibiotics front
  2. Apple breeding — science, art and persistence.
  3. The true cost of food, as seen in two pieces earlier this year:
  4. I couldn’t work out why there’s been such an outpouring of where-when-and-how-did-kale-come-to-dominate-our-lives stories. Maybe it’s because it’s 10 years since a landmark article. Amazingly, or not, it doesn’t mention the woman who claims to have created Big Kale. Or did she? (It’s a podcast, and it isn’t that easy to sample.)
  5. For the reference shelves: