Food as Power "We are suffering, in short, from a power famine as well as a food famine"

Shortly after the end of World War 2 in Europe, one of the quintessential boffins who had worked on the war effort turned his attention to the most pressing problem of the peace: a shortage of coal and oil. But where others saw the problem as a lack of transport, Geoffrey Pyke, saw a much more fundamental problem; a lack of food. Food required transport, and there was no fuel to power the engines. Pyke came up with a solution. Use the chemical energy in food to fuel muscular engines.

This episode is an abbreviated version of a paper on Food as Power: An Alternative View, which I am presenting on 30 May 2018 at the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium. The entire symposium is on Food and Power, so what’s alternative about my view? Pyke’s insight, that the production and transport of food requires muscular power, remains true today, and despite the very clear evidence and advice that Pyke offered in 1946, it also remains more or less ignored.

Muscles versus steam engines

A crucial part of Pyke’s argument is the greater efficiency of muscles compared to steam engines, and that slips by relatively quickly in the podcast. So, here’s the diagram that Pyke published in The Economist

Efficiencies of steam engine and human muscle compared. Apologies for quality; photographed on a monitor.

And here’s the detailed logic:

A pound of coal contains about 3150 calories, and if fed directly into a steam engine will produce about 175 calories of useful work. A pound of coal can also be used to refine sugar beets, in which case it will produce about a pound of sugar. The sugar contains about 1820 calories. Feed that to a man, and his muscles can turn it into about 365 calories of useful work. The man’s overall efficiency is about 11.5 percent, versus the steam engine’s 5.5 percent. Convert the coal into sugar, then, and you can get twice the useful work out of people than if you feed the coal to a steam engine.

Pyke argued that it would be “more economic, and politically necessary” to use what little coal there was to refine beet sugar than to power locomotives. And, as he sagely pointed out:

Half of the sugar–given the appropriate equipment– would be needed for the haulers taking the place of the steam engines, but the other half would be available to feed other workers such as coal miners, whose present output is so heavily reduced for want of food.

Muscles still do most of the work

Seventy years on, FAO estimates that muscles still provide 94 percent of the energy for global food production, about one-third animal muscle and two-thirds human muscle. One of the abiding problems is that women, who produce much of the food in sub-Saharan Africa, often have no choice but to use inefficient tools, designed for and bought by men. So metaphorical power also is relevant. But perhaps the saddest observation is that engineers have done masses of work to create tools and machines that make better use of the muscular power supplied by smallholder farmers and draught animals. These tools and machines have proved themselves in manifold trials on experimental stations, but they are ignored by the farmers for whom they were developed. The Colonial Office, in 1946, warned Pyke that it would be the people, not the equipment, that might pose a problem, and so it has proved. One report I read was rather plaintively subtitled “Perfected but rejected”.

Notes

  1. The 2018 Dublin Gastronomy Symposium on Food and Power takes place on 29 and 30 May 2018.
  2. My own paper Food As Power: an Alternative View is available for download, as are many of the other contributions.
  3. Music from Podington Bear.

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Final preparations for Dublin Gastronomy Symposium #DGS2018 completed. Looking forward to meeting old friends and making new ones and, I hope, to recording some of the fabulous speakers for forthcoming episodes.

Eat This Newsletter 078 Less isn't actually more

Fewer but longer items this week. I can’t be sure whether that’s because the world has been less busy than usual, or I have been busier than usual, preparing something for next week. Either way, here they are.

  1. Ok, this is a long read, and not entirely enjoyable, but I do think it is important: How to Kill a Fish. Ignorance is decidely not bliss.
  2. An American in Paris develops a taste for good bread, topped off with a list of eight recommended bakeries. I’d love a second opinion.
  3. Those apps that let you dine in someone’s home are all very well, but the one that really makes my mouth water is Authenticook, which is “Helping India Keep Dying Cuisines Alive”.
  4. Eater explains Why Kerrygold Butter Is Everywhere. It is a fun read, as far as it goes. But there’s much more to the story, some of which you can find in my very own podcast on the history of Irish butter.

Food safety and industry concentration How the back seat of a car is like a bag of leafy greens

In the previous episode, I talked to Phil Howard of Michigan State University about concentration in the food industry. Afterwards, I realised I had been so taken up with what he was telling me that I forgot to ask him one crucial question.

Is there any effect of concentration on public health or food safety?

It seems intuitively obvious that if you have long food chains, dependent on only a few producers, there is the potential for very widespread outbreaks. That is exactly what we are seeing in the current outbreaks of dangerous E. coli on romaine lettuce and Salmonella in eggs. But it is also possible that big industrial food producers both have the capital to invest in food safety and face stiffer penalties when things go wrong.

Are small producers and short food chains better? Marc Bellemare, at the University of Minnesota, has uncovered a strong correlation between some food-borne illnesses and the number of farmers’ markets relative to the population.

Phil thinks one answer is greater decentralization. There’s no good reason why all the winter lettuce and spinach in America should come from a tiny area around Yuma, Arizona. Marc says consumer education would help; we need to handle the food we buy with more attention to keeping it safe. Both solutions will take quite large changes in behaviour, by government and by ordinary people.

Right now, it probably isn’t possible to say with any certainty whether one system is inherently safer than the other. But even asking the question raises some interesting additional questions. If you have answers, or even suggestions, let me know.

Notes

  1. Phil Howard’s work on food-borne illness is on his website.
  2. Marc Bellemare’s work on farmers’ markets and food-borne illness has gone through a few iterations. He’ll email you a copy of the final paper if you ask.
  3. An episode early last year looked at aspects of food safety in developing countries. Spoiler: shorter food chains are safer there.
  4. Banner photo, norovirus. Cover photo, E. coli. Both public domain to the best of my knoweldge.

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Eat This Newsletter 077

7 May 2018

  1. Sure you can recreate 17th century recipes, but are you using “authentic” ingredients? In a new approach to food history, researchers are sending their raw (and cured) materials across the Atlantic – by sailing ship.
  2. Which is a far cry from how wine crosses the oceans today – in a wine box, but not as we know it. Rachel Laudan writes about another case in which industrial processes deliver better quality to more people.
  3. There are, apparently, more than 460 different “ecolabels” – 59 of which are about food. But guess what? Many of them are so keen to get big players on board that they may well be doing more harm than good, “providing ‘green cover’ for firms that are destroying the environment”. Maybe we need some concentration in the food certification industry?
  4. To soak or not to soak, that’s the bean question. I do, starting with warm water, but Steve Sando says it doesn’t much matter either way. And he should know; he’s the man who started Rancho Gordo beans. You may have seen the profile of him in The New Yorker. I suspect it is all down to freshness.
  5. And a follow up to the article in the previous newsletter, about mothers’ milk offering niutrition to good bacteria. Alison Aubrey did an interesting report for NPR, featuring research from UC Davis. Probiotics are, of course, a huge industry.