Eat This Newsletter 107

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A sweet sour story Immersed in apple cider vinegar

vinegar barrels

I went to Kilfinane, in Ireland, for the Hearsay Audio Festival. I stayed because Maurice Gilbert offered to show me round his apple empire at Ballyhoura Artisan Food Park.

cover artwork with photo of Maurice Gilbert sniffing vinegarI was sitting in O’Seachnasaíth’s public house, having just finished an excellent take-out that I’d brought in from Tasty Bites, because that’s how things work there, and enjoying a final Guinness. A chap I recognised, because I’d seen him grilling hamburgers at the Ballyhoura Artisan Food Park, introduced himself, and I learned that he was in fact part owner of Ballyhoura. What followed was an excellent conversation about the various apple juices he’d concocted, which I had been enjoying all weekend, and, which really piqued my interest, a brief account of how they made their apple cider vinegar.

It being late at night, in a somewhat noisy pub, recording was out of the question. Maurice was kind enough to offer to do the whole thing again for me in the morning, so I changed my departure plans and showed up, armed this time with my recorder.

Notes

  1. Ballyhoura has a website.

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Eat This Newsletter 106

A fastidious follow-up

Karima Moyer, a once and future guest on the podcast, took me gently to task for something I said in the most recent episode. “Fastidioso in Italian means annoying, and is all too appropriate!” Having pointed out that scientific names are all Latin, albeit some very strange Latin when converted from another language, rather than Italian, I thought I had best investigate further.

Xylella – the genus – is obvious enough, from the Greek for wood, along with the diminutive ending -ella because it is a tiny thing.

What about fastidiosa, the species? An online Latin dictionary gives four meanings:

1. disdainful  
2. exacting  
3. nauseating  
4. squeamish

All along, I had “exacting” in mind, and thought that perhaps the species name was a subtle little bit of taxonomic sarcasm, as I suggested in the podcast. But, as ever, worth checking, so off I went to the original description of Xylella fastidiosa. There I learned that fastidious is an adjective applied to a few genera of bacteria, where it means “nutritional fastidiousness” in the sense that these bacteria are picky eaters in the laboratory. They need a specialized growth medium, especially when they are first being isolated. And that’s why the discoverers called it Xylella fastidiosa.

(fas. tid. i. o’sa. N. L. m. adj. fastidiosus, highly critical; referring to the nutritional fastidiousness of the organism, particularly on primary isolation).

Obviously not as picky when it comes to the wild, with more than 350 plant species on its menu.

Chronicle of a Death Foretold, or What I did on my holidays

Dead olive trees behind a winged skull

Map of Xylella containment zones in Puglia
The most recent extension of the containment zone now covers the whole of the Salento peninsula
In 2013, a few olive trees near Gallipoli, in Lecce province in the heel of Italy’s boot, seemed to be dying of drought even though there was water. Turned out they had a disease caused by a nasty bacterium, Xylella fastidiosa, and it was the first time this particular disease had been identified in Europe. In California, where Xylella causes Pierce’s Disease in grapevines, it costs about a million dollars a year to try and control it. Plans were quickly drawn up in an attempt to control the disease, and equally quickly disrupted.

Olive seedling possibly resistant to xylella
One of the 10 potentially resistant olive seedlings discovered in a dead olive grove
Instead of killing maybe 3000 trees, more than four million have died in the past six years, and the disease is completely out of hand. When I was in Puglia in 2015, having just got interested in the story, it was quite exciting to see the occasional dead tree, marked for removal. This year, I was sickened to find whole landscapes, once covered with the glittering silver of olive leaves, brown and lifeless.

How did that happen?

Sun shining through dead olive tree

Notes

  1. Many, many sources provided the information that underpins this episode, notably Diffusion of xylella in Italian olive trees, a website that acts as a kind of clearing house, and the pages it linked to.
  2. An earlier episode on Xylella clearly wasn’t pessimistic enough.
  3. Music by Dasgoat and PSOVOD on Freesound and Podington Bear.
  4. Photos by me, except for the seedling, which I found here.

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