The Man Who Tried to Feed the World A new documentary about Norman Borlaug

Norman Borlaug, left, in an experimental wheat field in northern Mexico

Norman Borlaug with semi-dwarf wheatNorman Borlaug won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1970 for his work as a wheat breeder. The disease-resistant, dwarf wheats that he developed were the foundation of the Green Revolution, banishing global famine and turning India into a food-exporting nation. Many people have hailed Borlaug as a saint, a saviour of humanity. Others have blamed him for everything that is wrong with the modern global food system. The truth, naturally, lies somewhere in between, which is brought out in a new documentary about Borlaug and his work.

The documentary airs on PBS in the United States next week. I got the chance to see a preview and to talk to Rob Rapley, the writer, director and producer.

As our conversation makes clear, I hope, Borlaug never really imagined he was improving the lot of small subsistence farmers. If he wanted to do that, he would not have been working on wheat. But he was very clear that all he had done was to buy us time. This is what he said in his Nobel Lecture in December 1970:

The green revolution has won a temporary success in man’s war against hunger and deprivation; it has given man a breathing space. If fully implemented, the revolution can provide sufficient food for sustenance during the next three decades. But the frightening power of human reproduction must also be curbed; otherwise the success of the green revolution will be ephemeral only.

He also said “I believe it is far better for mankind to be struggling with new problems caused by abundance rather than with the old problem of famine”.

My fear is that we have done neither. We have not used the time bought us by Borlaug and the Green Revolution wisely, nor have we any idea what to do with the abundance.

Notes

  1. Rob Rapley’s documentary The Man Who Tried to Feed the World airs on 21 April in the American Experience strand on PBS; Here’s the link for the episode.
  2. The book Rob Rapley mentions right at the start is Charles Mann’s The Wizard and the Prophet, about Norman Borlaug and William Vogt. Mann appears in the film too.
  3. I cannot pass up the opportunity to promote an episode I made back in 2016. The True Father of the First Green Revolution is about Nazareno Strampelli, an Italian plant breeder whose work foreshadowed Borlaug’s by 40 years.
  4. Small b&w photo of Borlaug with semi-dwarf wheats courtesy of National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution. Photo by Arthur Rickerby
  5. And, we have a transcript. Sorry for the delay.
  6. Cover (and main) photo shows Norman Borlaug behind the wheel of a combine harvester with the Mexican field technicians who contributed to seed production in the winter at Ciudad Obregón, Sonora, northern Mexico, c. 1952. Photo credit: CIMMYT.
  7. Banner photo shows Borlaug in the field at what is now CIMMYT’s CENEB station (Campo Experimental Norman E. Borlaug, or The Norman E. Borlaug Experiment Station), near Ciudad Obregón, Sonora, northern Mexico, in 1961. Note that the wheat is shoulder high, not a semi-dwarf variety (unless they are on their knees, which I doubt). Photo credit: CIMMYT

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Russian Food: Old and New North of the Acrtic Circle, the Roots of Russian Food

Darra Goldstein on the edge of the Barents Sea

Bowl of barley and dried mushroom soup, photo by Teresa Cherfas Darra Goldstein combines a scholar’s knowledge of history and literature with a cook’s interest in recipes and ingredients. She had already written extensively on food across the vast Soviet empire, but more recently turned her attention to a search for what she calls “the true heart of Russian food“. She found it on the Kola Peninsula, a wild and forbidding part of Russia right at the top of Scandinavia. Our conversation, prompted by her new book, went further afield to include glimpses of food revivals and innovation in Russia today.

Notes

  1. Darra Goldstein’s website is here.
  2. Beyond the North Wind: Russia in Food and Lore is available you-know-where and also from independent bookshops, many of which will ship. It takes more effort, I know, but everything these days takes more effort. Here, I’ve done a bit of that for you, for the US and a couple of places in the UK.
  3. Banner photo shows Darra at the edge of the Barents Sea, which bounds the Kola Peninsula to the north. Podcast cover photo © Stefan-Wettainen.
  4. Photo of barley and dried mushroom soup, and the soup itself, by Teresa Cherfas.
  5. Transcript here.

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Eat This Newsletter 120 An opportunity?

  1. Extraordinary Fungal Masks used by the Indigenous People of North America and Asia
  2. The Italian Farmer Returning Chickens to the Wild. I don’t envy him collecting about 1000 eggs a day from the woods.
  3. How herring in the North Sea could sour the Brexit trade negotiations.
  4. If you don’t know it, and even if you do, listen to Singing the Fishing, in my opinion the best of the marvellous BBC Radio Ballads.
  5. Covid–19 and the future of food from Chris Smaje of Small Farm Future. Long-term hopeful.
  6. “The Gastronomica Editorial Collective is seeking dispatches about food in the time of COVID–19.”
  7. Here’s mine … Life here in lockdown land honestly hasn’t been that bad. I’ve written a bit about it here and here.

The book of the Book of Tasty and Healthy Food Remembering the food of the past, no matter how bad it was

Illustration of a avish spread from The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food

Home mdae ice cream on a snowy Moscow balcony

The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food – Книга о вкусной и здоровой пище – was published in 1939 as a complete guide for Soviet citizens. It was both practical, with recipes and tips on etiquette, hygiene and nutrition, and propaganda, with pictures of lavish spreads that no ordinary citizen would ever enjoy. It was, effectively, the only cookbook most Russians knew, and for a few writers has acted as a springboard to produce a food-based memoir. Latest of these is Anna Kharzeeva, a young Russian woman whose blog posts detailing her adventures cooking from The Book – leavened with the stories of her Granny and Granny’s friends – will shortly be published as a book.

Anna sent me a selection of her online articles to read, and on the basis of those, I set out to discover for myself the allure today of Soviet-era food.

Notes

  1. Anna Kharzeeva’s cookery school is the Samovar Cook & Chat Club. She is also on Facebook and Instagram.
  2. Wikipedia has a little information about The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food and the 1952 edition is online in Russian.
  3. Some of the stories and recipes we talked about:
  4. Here is the transcript. Sorry about the delay.
  5. Laughter from Freesound by lonemonk
  6. The ice cream photograph is Anna’s own.

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