High Art Gazing down at the world from space reveals truths about food

Detailed view of Wrangler feedyar, Tulia, Texas

Mishka Henner Bologna likes to think of itself as the pinnacle of food culture in Italy, so it is a bit of a wonder that it took until the 5th edition of the Biennial of Photography on Industry and Work to focus attention on food. All of the 11 exhibitions were really interesting and well curated, not least because they were often in glorious spaces that are not normally open to the public, resulting in some very fine cultural juxtapositions. But there was one that really caught my eye because it offered literally a new view of the foundations of America’s appetite for cheap beef. Almost as soon as I got home I arranged to chat to the artist, Mishka Henner, about his work.

Notes

  1. Mishka Henner’s work is at his website and you can follow him on Instagram. There’s also a profile of him in The New York Times.
  2. All the images are taken from Mishka Henner’s originals.
  3. Extra music started with a track from Jack Bailey.
  4. Transcript now available.

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A visit to an ancient Roman bakery Behind the scenes at the Mulino di Silvano in Ostia Antica

The massive bread oven at Ostia Antica

Farrell Monaco at one of the two passes to the bread oven.
Farrell Monaco at one of the two passes to the huge oven
Down the River Tiber from Rome is the huge archaeological site of Ostia Antica, which used to be the main port for the city. It’s all ruins now, of course, and open to the elements, but still incredibly suggestive. As you stroll around under the umbrella pines, it’s hard not to daydream about what things might have been like a couple of thousand years ago. In my case, with very little formal education in the matter, those daydreams are pretty foggy. When I get to something I know a little about, like a bakery, the fog clears a bit and I can begin to see some details.

With a real expert, however, things really come to life, so I was absolutely delighted to be able to visit the Mulino di Silvano at Ostia with Farrell Monaco, who has studied, and brought back to life, the canonical bread of Ancient Rome.

She brought the bakery back to life for me. It was a total treat.

Notes

  1. Farrell Monaco’s website is at Tavola Mediterranea and she’s on Twitter and Instagram too.
  2. Photos taken by me, on site.
  3. Additional music by staticpony1, messed about with a bit.
  4. Yes, there is a transcript.

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The true history of the potato in Europe Let’s hear it for the peasants

Statue of Antoine-Augustin Parmentier being removed for cleaning

book cover

The story that’s often told of the potato in Europe is one of ignorant, superstitious peasants and wily aristocrats. The peasants shun the potato until the wily aristo plays a trick on them to open their eyes to the true value of the potato. The aristo might be someone like Antoine-Augustin Parmentier in France or Frederick the Great in Prussia, but whoever it was, the bones of the story remain the same. And — mea culpa — I believed the story and even retold it myself on occasion. So I naturally slapped my forehead, hard, when I heard Rebecca Earle give an online lecture about the history of the potato and resolved to talk to her myself.

Rebecca Earle doesn’t deny that something happened to put potatoes and their promoters into the history books, but shows clearly that the peasants were far smarter than history gives them credit for.

Notes

  1. Feeding the People: the Politics of the Potato by Rebecca Earle is a cracking read. If you buy it here, in the US or here, in the UK, I get a teeny-weeny commission and you get to feel good about supporting bookshops.
  2. I’ve no hesitation in linking to the episode Potatoes are (almost) perfect with Carol Deppe.
  3. Here is the transcript.
  4. Banner photograph is of Parmentier’s statue in Neuilly being removed for a good clean. Supporters get a special newsletter with lots more detail. Cover photo is a detail from The Potato Harvest (Kartoffelernte, 1889) by Ludwig Kraus.

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Rachel Roddy: An A–Z of Pasta Twenty-one letters, fifty shapes, unlimited possibilities

Carton of mixed pasta

Rachel Roddy is a marvellous conduit between the many cultures and kitchens of her adopted homeland and a world that simply cannot get enough of Italy. Her latest book is all about pasta, although she wisely recognised that there was little point in trying to be encyclopaedic. Instead, she chose 50 shapes on which to hang history, culture, personal stories and, of course, recipes and suggestions.

We met just in time for me to get this episode ready for World Pasta Day, today. We talked about the book, obviously, and also about many other aspects of pasta and Italian life. She did divulge what she is thinking of making to celebrate World Pasta Day. I won’t spoil the secret; you’ll just have to listen. What will you be making?

Notes

  1. An A-Z of Pasta: Stories, Shapes, Sauces, Recipes is widely available.
  2. So is A Short History of Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce, by Massimo Montanari.
  3. And Oretta Zanini De Vita’s Encyclopedia of Pasta.
  4. After my confession about using up bits of leftover mixed pasta, I looked closely in the shops, and discovered that more than one brand actually sells boxes of mixed pasta. What’s more, they cost exactly the same as whole pasta. I don’t understand.
  5. Transcripts are a bit delayed right now, but there will be one soon.

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