Feeding children well Children have special nutritional needs; they do not have special food needs

Representative schools meals from five different countries

Tina Moffat portraitPeople, not least parents, have becomes concerned about the increasing proportion of obese and overweight children in wealthier countries. It has even been called an epidemic. Can biology and anthropology deepen our understanding of childhood feeding and suggest possible solutions? Tina Moffat certainly thinks so. She has studied how children are nourished in Japan, Nepal, France and her native Canada. Her book – Small Bites – rounds up the evidence and shares several important observations. Neophobia – trying very small quantities of novel foods until your body is certain they won’t harm you – is a behaviour common to all humans (and other omnivores). Picky eating, which terrifies parents in certain cultures, becomes entrenched by being rewarded. And school lunches demonstrate what society thinks makes a proper meal and the value it places on good childhood nutrition.

Notes

  1. Tina Moffat is an Associate professor at McMaster University in Canada. Her book Small Bites: Biocultural Dimension of Children’s Food and Nutrition was published earlier this year by University of British Columbia Press.
  2. The USDA report I mentioned is Added Sugars in School Meals and Competitive Foods.
  3. Transcript right here.
  4. Banner photo assembled from a set created by a catering company around 2015. Other photos from TastEd, a charity that is doing wonderful work to educate children in the UK about food.

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In search of tomato gold A change in EU seed law opens the door to more tomato diversity

Label attached to tomato plant

Cover artwork with a close-up of an orange tomatoSince the 1960s, European seed law could best be summarised as “everything not forbidden is compulsory”. There is a common catalogue of registered seed varieties, and only varieties on the list are on sale. With a flat fee for registration, only the most lucrative varieties are registered, which suits big seed companies and tomato growers, but meant that lots of varieties with more niche appeal — for home gardeners or small growers — vanished. The law is now being relaxed a little, allowing trade in seeds of “organic heterogeneous material”. Diversity, to you and me.

Organic growers and breeders have been preparing to take advantage of their new freedom by creating new, diverse populations, funded by the same EU. I went along to a field day to evaluate the fruits of a programme to breed new varieties of orange tomatoes.

Notes

  1. Andrea Mazzucato shares his research papers. He also works with Jose Blanca, who told me about Tomatoes: domestication and diversity in April 2022.
  2. Rete Semi Rurali’s website in Italian.
  3. I would love to send you to the website of the EU’s Harnesstom project, but as a result of enemy action is has been offline since September 26.
  4. Two good sources on tomato fruit colour are from Frogsleap Farm and something called the online tomato vine.
  5. If you are interested in seeds and plant breeding, there are plenty more episodes.

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Mothers and Milk The ultimate short food chain; one person makes it, another person eats it.

Detail from Tintoretto's The Origin of the Milky Way

Model of a breastfeeding mother from a preseppio in NaplesA wet nurse (for that is what Hera was in all tellings of the story) created the Milky Way when her divine milk sprayed across the heavens. Today’s nursing mothers are not so blessed. Although women have a legal right to breastfeed in public across the United States and the UK (and many other countries), there are plenty of individuals who seem to think that they have the right to tell them to stop, and plenty of new mothers who are intimidated enough not to try. Why? How can this most essential of food chains possibly be considered shameful? And then there are the women who would dearly love to breastfeed their infants, but cannot. In this episode, experts on infant feeding discuss the history and current status of mothers’ milk and its various substitutes.

Notes

  1. Professor Amy Brown’s website is full of amazing resources for and about nursing mothers.
  2. Lindsay Naylor is a political geographer. Her paper Troubling care in the neonatal intensive care unit and others prompted me to dig deeper.
  3. Professor Lawrence Weaver wrote White Blood: A History of Human Milk. His website “is a kind of autobiography”.
  4. There was no way I could cover the contamination at the Abbott infant formula plant. Helena Bottemiller Evich originally broke the story and has been following it closely. Her latest roundup sticks it to the Food and Drug Administration with a detailed accounting.
  5. The transcript has finally arrived.

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Fad diets Too good to be true

Janet Chrzan portraitAtkins. South Beach. Whole30. Zone. Keto. Banting? Yes, Banting. Not the Frederick Banting of Banting & Best, discoverers of insulin, but his distant relative William Banting, author, in 1863, of the self-published Letter on Corpulence, Addressed to the Public. Not the first fad diet by any means — Banting, a prominent London undertaker, had tried a bunch — it is the model, acknowledged and otherwise, for all the high-fat, low carbohydrate diets now so familiar and one of the first to seize the public imagination.

In Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets, Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill examine fad diets and the people who follow them as anthropologists might examine foreign cultures. Janet Chrzan helped me understand why people are drawn to fad diets and how they help to soothe, at least temporarily, some of the anxieties that surround food.

Notes

  1. Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets, by Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill, is published by Columbia University Press.
  2. Janet Chrzan has a website
  3. William Banting’s Letter on Corpulence, Addressed to the Public is a fascinating light read.
  4. Olivier Bernard’s The life cycle of a fad diet is fun.
  5. Here is the transcript; thanks to the supporters who make this possible.
  6. Slight apologies for the banner photo; inspiration abandoned me.

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