How to be a good host and a good guest Even The “Worst Dinner Guest Ever” deserves respect

Warning tape that reads "Caution: Allergens" in front of a selection of foods that might be allergens

Head shots of Megan Dean and Matthew Smith
Megan Dean (left) and Matthew Smith (right)

Venn diagram showing the intersection of gluten intolerant, allergic to nuts, lactose intolerant, allergic to eggs and vegan as the worst dinner guest ever.World Philosophy Day happens later this week, which makes it a good time to be asking what constitutes good behaviour in a host and, equally, in a guest. I’m prompted by a recent article that took the rise in food allergies and intolerances as a starting point to ask how a host should act when faced with a guest whose professed allergies seem a tad suspect. Is it OK to ignore guest requests as snowflake signifiers? What should guests do when faced with intolerable food that they failed to inform their host about? In a perfect world, hosts and guests would accommodate one another’s needs; the world, however, is not perfect.

Notes

  1. Megan A. Dean’s article The “Worst Dinner Guest Ever”: On “Gut Issues” and Epistemic Injustice at the Dinner Table appeared in Gastronomica 2022.
  2. The books Megan Dean mentioned were Elizabeth Telfer’s Food for Thought and Karen Stohr’s On Manners.
  3. Matthew Smith has an article in the same volume and has written about the rise in food allergies.
  4. There is, of course, a countervailing view to all this mutual respect of hosts and guests, the idea of dinner party as revenge. For an entertaining take on that, I recommend you start with Jesse Browner’s Shark Bait, also in Gastronomica.
  5. Here is the transcript.

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Feeding children well Children have special nutritional needs; they do not have special food needs

Representative schools meals from five different countries

Tina Moffat portraitPeople, not least parents, have becomes concerned about the increasing proportion of obese and overweight children in wealthier countries. It has even been called an epidemic. Can biology and anthropology deepen our understanding of childhood feeding and suggest possible solutions? Tina Moffat certainly thinks so. She has studied how children are nourished in Japan, Nepal, France and her native Canada. Her book – Small Bites – rounds up the evidence and shares several important observations. Neophobia – trying very small quantities of novel foods until your body is certain they won’t harm you – is a behaviour common to all humans (and other omnivores). Picky eating, which terrifies parents in certain cultures, becomes entrenched by being rewarded. And school lunches demonstrate what society thinks makes a proper meal and the value it places on good childhood nutrition.

Notes

  1. Tina Moffat is an Associate professor at McMaster University in Canada. Her book Small Bites: Biocultural Dimension of Children’s Food and Nutrition was published earlier this year by University of British Columbia Press.
  2. The USDA report I mentioned is Added Sugars in School Meals and Competitive Foods.
  3. Transcript right here.
  4. Banner photo assembled from a set created by a catering company around 2015. Other photos from TastEd, a charity that is doing wonderful work to educate children in the UK about food.

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In search of tomato gold A change in EU seed law opens the door to more tomato diversity

Label attached to tomato plant

Cover artwork with a close-up of an orange tomatoSince the 1960s, European seed law could best be summarised as “everything not forbidden is compulsory”. There is a common catalogue of registered seed varieties, and only varieties on the list are on sale. With a flat fee for registration, only the most lucrative varieties are registered, which suits big seed companies and tomato growers, but meant that lots of varieties with more niche appeal — for home gardeners or small growers — vanished. The law is now being relaxed a little, allowing trade in seeds of “organic heterogeneous material”. Diversity, to you and me.

Organic growers and breeders have been preparing to take advantage of their new freedom by creating new, diverse populations, funded by the same EU. I went along to a field day to evaluate the fruits of a programme to breed new varieties of orange tomatoes.

Notes

  1. Andrea Mazzucato shares his research papers. He also works with Jose Blanca, who told me about Tomatoes: domestication and diversity in April 2022.
  2. Rete Semi Rurali’s website in Italian.
  3. I would love to send you to the website of the EU’s Harnesstom project, but as a result of enemy action is has been offline since September 26.
  4. Two good sources on tomato fruit colour are from Frogsleap Farm and something called the online tomato vine.
  5. If you are interested in seeds and plant breeding, there are plenty more episodes.

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Mothers and Milk The ultimate short food chain; one person makes it, another person eats it.

Detail from Tintoretto's The Origin of the Milky Way

Model of a breastfeeding mother from a preseppio in NaplesA wet nurse (for that is what Hera was in all tellings of the story) created the Milky Way when her divine milk sprayed across the heavens. Today’s nursing mothers are not so blessed. Although women have a legal right to breastfeed in public across the United States and the UK (and many other countries), there are plenty of individuals who seem to think that they have the right to tell them to stop, and plenty of new mothers who are intimidated enough not to try. Why? How can this most essential of food chains possibly be considered shameful? And then there are the women who would dearly love to breastfeed their infants, but cannot. In this episode, experts on infant feeding discuss the history and current status of mothers’ milk and its various substitutes.

Notes

  1. Professor Amy Brown’s website is full of amazing resources for and about nursing mothers.
  2. Lindsay Naylor is a political geographer. Her paper Troubling care in the neonatal intensive care unit and others prompted me to dig deeper.
  3. Professor Lawrence Weaver wrote White Blood: A History of Human Milk. His website “is a kind of autobiography”.
  4. There was no way I could cover the contamination at the Abbott infant formula plant. Helena Bottemiller Evich originally broke the story and has been following it closely. Her latest roundup sticks it to the Food and Drug Administration with a detailed accounting.
  5. The transcript has finally arrived.

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