Eat This Podcast
Talking and thinking about anything around food

Food Notes from an American Prison “A garlic smuggler for the mafia”

9 February 2026 Filed under: Tags:

The freedom Italian prisoners enjoy around food came as a shock

A retro picture postcard with a bird's eye view of the Lewisburg penitentiary
Bird’s Eye View of United States Penitentiary Lewisburg, PA

A smiling man with a bushy long white beard and spectacles. He is wearing a purple beret and a yellow down vest.One of the things I found most interesting about the previous episode, Cooking in Maximum Security was that prisoners in Italy not only cooked pretty elaborate meals, but that it was their right to do so. The ability to make at least some food for themselves seems to be taken for granted among prisoners in Italy. Not so in the United States, where Hollywood has made us all aware both that food is often the spark that ignites a riot and that some prisoners can get away with cooking much more elaborate meals. It surprised Edward Hasbrouck too, who shared memories of his brief time in a federal prison with a friend we have in common. He agreed to talk to me about his experiences of food in prisons gained at Lewisburg Federal Prison in the early 1980s, long before ramen became the bedrock of prison food systems.

Notes

  1. Edward Hasbrouck’s main website contains loads of information about travel and more besides. The non-profit he mentioned is Papers, Please! – The Identity Project.
  2. I’m grateful to Peter Rukavina, who shared a link to Matteo Guidi’s episode, which is how Edward Hasbrouck found it and where he commented.
  3. Here is the transcript.
  4. Banner photo from an old postcard of Lewisburg Penitentiary.

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Cooking in Maximum Security “Oh, that’s so Italian”

29 December 2025 Filed under: Tags: ,

This is a way also to say “I’m a subject” in a place that tries to transform me into an object. I’m a subject. As a subject, I want to eat what I want today.

Drawings of prisoners' inventions to cook in their cells.

Portrait of a man looking directly at the camera. He has a beard and greyish hair and is wearing a patterned red scarf.
Matteo Guidi
An extremely unlikely source (see note 3) tipped me off to the existence of Cooking in Maximum Security. In some respects, it is completely ordinary; a book of recipes — Starters, First Courses et cetera — along with handy tips for making the dishes. In others, it is eye-opening, because all the recipes, and the inventions necessary to make them, were contributed by prisoners in Italian maximum security prisons. Not only that, but cooking is an essential and integral part of the prisoners’ everyday lives. Matteo Guidi, an anthropologist and artist who teaches in Italy and Spain, guided the process of compiling the book.

Notes

  1. Matteo Guidi has built a website for Cooking in Maximum Security that gives a lot more information.
  2. Matteo’s site has purchase details, but you might do better going directly to Half Letter Press.
  3. It was Cory Doctorow’s fabulous Pluralistic that sent me in search of Matteo Guidi.
  4. Banner and cover images by Mario Trudu, taken from the book.
  5. Here is the transcipt.

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A Fresh Look at Domestication Turning the invention of agriculture on its head

17 November 2025 Filed under:

Selection had nothing to do with transforming grass into wheat, or any other aspect of domestication.

A Neolithic sickle, with sharp flint chips embedded into a wooden handle with tar or bitumen.

A portrait of a man with a trimmed beard and spectacles, in the background is a microscope out of focus.
Robert Spengler III
Settled agriculture produced the food surpluses that enabled the development of civilisations. No wonder, then, that scholars have been keen to understand the origins of agriculture, as a way of starting to understand the origin of civilisations. The general view is that humans actively domesticated plants and animals, selecting the traits that made them more reliable producers of food. What if that’s all wrong? What if the traits that mark domestication are not the result of selection but instead an inevitable evolutionary response to changes in the environment? Changes wrought by humans, to be sure, but unconsciously and without any forethought.

That’s the central thesis of a new book, Nature’s Greatest Success: how plants evolved to exploit humanity, by Robert Spengler III.

Notes

  1. Nature’s Greatest Success: how plants evolved to exploit humanity is published by University of California Press.
  2. If you want more details but less than a book, Seeking consensus on the domestication concept by Spengler and colleagues is part of a journal issue devoted to domestication. There’s also the Spengler Lab website.
  3. Here’s the transcript.
  4. Image of a Neolithic sickle from the Museum Quintana

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Revolutions are Born in Breadlines US–Soviet agricultural exchanges after the Volga famine

4 November 2025 Filed under: Tags: , , ,

Anti-communists sent food and medical assistance. Communist sympathisers sent tractors. And both countries had much to learn from the other.

A team of three horses draw a plough, circa 1920. Furrows to the right, unbroken earth to the left.

Front cover of bookThe famine in the Volga Region in the early 1920s was a humanitarian disaster, but it kick started about a decade of agricultural cooperation between the Soviet Union and the United States. Agricultural experts from each country visited the other to teach and to learn, a series of exchanges documented by Maria Fedorova, assistant professor in the Department of Russian Studies at Macalester College in Minnesota, in a new book called Seeds of Exchange: Soviets, Americans, and Cooperation in Agriculture, 1921–1935.

Apart from food aid and medical assistance from the US, the exchanges included material goods, like seeds and tractors, as well as information and experience, and were motivated as much by ideology and politics as by pressing humanitarian concerns.

Notes

  1. Maria Fedorova’s book is Seeds of Exchange: Soviets, Americans, and Cooperation in Agriculture, 1921–1935.
  2. Seeds as Technology: The Russian Agricultural Bureau in New York and Soviet Agricultural Modernization, 1921–26 gives more information about Vavilov and Borodin’s organisation, while The Untold Story of “Radical Relief” to Soviet Russia has more on the American Tractor Unit.
  3. Here is the transcript.
  4. Podcast artwork from Бельтюков В. Public Domain.

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The Spice Bag A story of assimilation, innovation, and widespread adoption

20 October 2025 Filed under: Tags:

The after-hours dish that conquered Ireland and the Irish everywhere.

Shop front of the Chinese takeaway in Dublin with the word Sunflower and Chine symbols in yellow on a brown background. Inside the takeaway you can see two customers and a bright green neon strip. There are reflections in the window.

The contents of a spice bag, showing chip, onions, green peppers and bits of presumably chickenIn 2008, the legend goes, staff at a Chinese takeaway in Dublin cooked themselves up a special treat after hours. Nothing too fancy, but tasty enough that soon their friends wanted the same. One thing led to another and today you can find something similar not only across Ireland but as far afield as New Zealand.

That after-hours dish became the spice bag, and in many ways the story of the spice bag is the story of assimilation, innovation and widespread adoption that can be told about so many “immigrant” foods. The spice bag emigrated, came back home, and found new modes of expression among communities who took the same basic essentials on which to layer their own particular tastes of home.

Notes

  1. I met John Mulcahy at the Food and Drink as Education Conference, which he helped to organise.
  2. John Mulcahy’s paper “A is for Aircháelán”: the case for compiling a compendium of food in Ireland offers a taste of the breadth and depth of information he has compiled.
  3. Here is the transcript.

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