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Anchovies Part I A work of art in a can

14 October 2024

An open tin of anchovies with a label showing the name of the woman who packed them.

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A woman with short, dark hair and dark eyes looking directly at the camera.
Marcela Garcés

Anchovies can be very divisive; some people absolutely cannot stand them. I can’t get enough of the little blighters. What’s the difference? It might be as simple as the way they’re stored.

At the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium this past summer, I was delighted to learn one crucial way to improve any tin of anchovies: keep it in the fridge until you’re ready to use it.

Marcela Garcés is a professor at Siena College in New York, and as a side hustle she and her husband Yuri Morejón run La Centralita, a culinary studio that aims, among other things, “to teach guests about anchovies as a gourmet food in context”. As a result of our conversation, I now hold anchovies in even higher regard.

Notes

  1. Marcela Garcés’ paper is In Defense of the Anchovy: Creating New Culinary Memories through Applied Cultural Context.
  2. La Centralita is in Albany, New York.
  3. Here is the transcript, thanks to the generosity of supporters
  4. Banner photograph from Marcela Garcés.

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